https://www.rpbiketech.com/blog daily 0.75 2021-03-23 https://www.rpbiketech.com/blog/how-to-fit-a-tyre monthly 0.5 2021-04-13 https://www.rpbiketech.com/blog/5-tools-every-bike-mechanic-needs monthly 0.5 2021-03-23 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1616442885910-6J7HLNNUJ88709ILKML7/Knipex+86+03+250 Blog - 5 tools every bike mechanic should own - Knipex 250mm pliers These things are incredibly versatile, from undoing any nut up to 52mm to pushing bearings into linkages if you can think of a job to use them for they’ll probably be up to the challenge! The best function of these pliers is the fact that the jaws move perfectly parallel to each other and don’t have any teeth to damage anything, that makes these great for bushing bearings into linkages and so may other jobs. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1616442600489-KFP1QI8D06JTMIWBNWX0/image2.jpg Blog - 5 tools every bike mechanic should own - Park Tool Flush Cutters I don’t know how I lived without flush cutters for so long! If you work on bikes then you’ve most likely had to cut zip ties, or have cut yourself on a badly cut zip tie. These make sharp zip tie ends a thing of the past, try a set for yourself and I can almost guarantee that you won’t turn back. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1616442508052-WSKSYWJLQMBITA07KTYR/image0%2B%25281%2529.jpg Blog - 5 tools every bike mechanic should own - Park Tool Multi tool, 2-6mm This is easily my most used tool, I specifically like that I’ve got almost every allen key I could need right there in my hand and I don’t have to keep going back to get a different one. It's also not got too much leverage which means theirs less chance of over torquing a bolt. If you’re going to buy yourself just one tool from this list, make it the Park AWS-10! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1616443148367-Z957RTVVB6BLTCV1S47B/image2%2B%25281%2529.jpg Blog - 5 tools every bike mechanic should own - Spokey spoke key I’ve tried a lot of different spoke keys and the ones from Spokey have always been the nicest to use. This one is easily 5 years old now and still going strong. If you build or true wheels then make sure to get yourself one of these. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1616443279786-FAFJ9I211V9L740YQ44S/image1.jpg Blog - 5 tools every bike mechanic should own - Bonus tool - custom nipple driver. Now this isn’t a tool that you can buy but if you have a spare spoke then you can easily make one. I use it to insert nipples into the rim and start to thread them onto the spoke, I have used a pair of pliers to crimp the threads of the tool just after the first 2 so the nipple stops and can then be threaded onto the spoke in the wheel. If you build wheels or replace spokes occasionally then this is a very helpful tool so give it a go and make your own. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1616443028685-YQXQLR9EEB4J911JVJ5F/image0.jpg Blog - 5 tools every bike mechanic should own - Topeak Smart Guage D2 A pressure gauge is a must to consistently make sure your tyre pressure is correct, you’d be surprised at just how far out the gauges on track pumps are, I’ve seen track pumps 10-15psi out. This Topeak pressure gauge is always in my workshop or in the van ready to check my tyre pressures before riding. My favourite feature of it is the ability to adjust the pressure with the gauge on the valve which I use all the time. https://www.rpbiketech.com/blog/dos-and-donts-of-rim-taping monthly 0.5 2021-03-23 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1615233044918-WR9WD6LSNI7LHRPTP2PF/image2.jpeg Blog - The do’s and don’t’s of taping your tubeless rim - Do, make sure the rim is clean before you start. Remove the rim tape that was previously on the rim, if it was an adhesive tape then it can be worth heating the tape up with a hair dryer before and as you remove it, this can reduce the amount of sticky residue left on the rim once the tape is removed. If the wheel was previously tubeless and the rim tape wasn’t sufficient then you may find that sealant could have leaked into the rim (like the rim here) if this is the case then your best bet is to wash the sealant out with a hose. A lot of sealants are water based so water is the best thing to use to wash it out without leaving much residue which could stop the new rim tape from sticking efficiently. Don’t, leave any old rim tape on the rim and tape over it. Some rims come with a thin piece of rim tape fitted that just covers the spoke holes, it’s best not to leave this on when fitting the tubeless tape or to try taping over some old tape as you will get the best seal when the tape is stuck to as much of the rim as possible. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1615235821332-A7XQSB28UYV71I334MEX/image4.jpeg Blog - The do’s and don’t’s of taping your tubeless rim - Don’t, use tyre levers to fit the tyre! Only use tyre levers to remove a tyre, not to fit it. Using a tyre lever to fit a tyre can damage the rim tape, and even the rim if a metal tyre lever is used. This is what has happened to the rim here which caused the tyre to not seal and sealant to leak into the rim. Do, use a hair dryer to make sure the tape is stuck. Now, this isn’t a necessity but it can help hugely to make sure the rim tape has stuck to as much of the rim as possible. Go round the rim with the hair dryer to heat up the rim and the tape then once everything has warmed up a bit it should make it easier to push the tape down and help it stick properly. I also like to use a plastic tyre lever to run round the bead of the rim and make sure the tape has stuck everywhere. If you have time and really want to make sure the tape has stuck sufficiently then you can fit a tyre with a tube once you have taped the rim, pump it up hard and leave it overnight, this will really make sure the tape has stuck and you should be good to go! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1615234785976-7STXW6N23OCJP3VDEIHZ/image0.jpeg Blog - The do’s and don’t’s of taping your tubeless rim - Do, use rime tape that is wider than the internal rim width. I like to use tape that is around 5mm wider than the measured internal rim width, for example on a 30mm rim I will use a 35mm rim tape (like the rim here). I find that this gives the best coverage of the rim with enough tape to cover down into the well at the centre of the rim and right to the edge of the rim and even up the sidewalls slightly. This means that the tyre sits on the rim tape and won’t peel the tape back as the tyre is pushed off the bead when removing it. Do, use rim tape that is very sticky and has an element of stretch to it. Some rim tapes don’t have any stretch and this makes them a nightmare to fit to certain rims that have deeper wells in the centre of them. A tape with a bit of stretch, like the Peaty’s tape, can make it a lot easier to get the tape to conform to the shape of the rim. Do, overlap the tape at the ends. I always make sure to overlap the tape by at least a few spoke holes, this makes sure that there’s less chance of the sealant getting under the tape, even if the end of the tape does peel up a bit. https://www.rpbiketech.com/blog/how-to-fit-a-mudhugger monthly 0.5 2021-03-23 https://www.rpbiketech.com/blog/easy-shimano-brake-bleed monthly 0.5 2021-03-01 https://www.rpbiketech.com/blog/oneup-v2-dropper-service monthly 0.5 2021-02-20 https://www.rpbiketech.com/blog/snowflake-lacing monthly 0.5 2021-03-23 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1612805673952-ORKMQUXU2G8HY87ONIGH/Snowflake+Lacing+5.jpg Blog - Snowflake Lacing - The final product. I still love the look of snowflake lacing! When I finished the tensioning and truing I added some Loctite 222 (similar to DT Swiss’ Spoke Freeze) to help the wheel stay tight and true and it was done. One of the biggest things I noticed when the wheel was finished was just how stiff the wheel/spokes feel. I’ve heard a lot of stuff about snowflake lacing over the years and the most common thing said was that it created a wheel that wasn’t as strong as a standard 3 cross wheel but after lacing my own I’m not wholly sure that that is the case. The bike this wheel is going on will be more of a show/demonstration bike so these wheels won’t ever get hammered but I may have to try snowflake lacing on my trail bike’s wheels in the future to really put the theory that it isn’t as strong to the test. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1612809851510-0TZ68WBEH574QR6J9MT3/Snowflake+Lacing+7.jpg Blog - Snowflake Lacing https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1612805209763-FX7WKUYA1RPMGLMWLG5F/Snowflake+Lacing+1 Blog - Snowflake Lacing - So here we are, my first go at snowflake lacing… I started off by doing a bit of research from various other blogs and youtube videos to find out the best way to get the correct length spokes for snowflake lacing as due to the twists the spokes need to be longer than they would be in a standard 3 cross laced wheel. I worked out the spoke length using my usual methods of measuring the hub and rim and then inputting the measurements into Wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/, I’ve used this site for years and its always been consistent in the accuracy of the spoke lengths it recommends. After getting the spoke lengths for a normal 32 hole, 3 cross lacing pattern I added 4-5mm to those lengths to get the length of spokes I needed. This was for a 26” rim so you may need to add more for a 27.5” or 29” rim. (I might explore this lacing on bigger wheels in the future…) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1612805449565-6VO6YHIJRJE6IQNZVRVN/Snowflake+Lacing+2.jpg Blog - Snowflake Lacing - I started off by lacing the wheel in the normal way that I lace a 3 cross wheel but only putting the nipples on a couple of turns. Once I had laced the whole wheel I then undid each intertwining pair of spokes, twisted them around each other twice and re-threaded the nipples on back in the holes that they initially came out of. I repeated this all the way round on both sides of the wheel. There are a few ways to create a snowflake laced wheel but I chose to stick to the double twist as then the spokes go back in the same hole they were initially laced into, keeping it relatively simple and not overcomplicating it. I may try some more complicated lacing patterns another time. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1612805527909-NXV74JM3QB4VVBCOUO6T/Snowflake+Lacing+3.jpg Blog - Snowflake Lacing - Here’s the freshly snowflake laced wheel. After getting all the spokes twisted and the nipples back on I had to get the every spoke to the same starting tension by threading each nipple down to the end of the thread of the spoke. This is the same as you would with building a wheel with any other lacing pattern and gives you an even starting point to add tension. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1612805601534-TVKS87IBFSUR9FG5VBJN/Snowflake+Lacing+4.jpg Blog - Snowflake Lacing - Once all the nipples were at the same place it was time to start adding some tension to the wheel. There seemed to be a variety of views online about how to go about tensioning a snowflake wheel but I decided to try going about it the same way I normally would. This generally worked fine and there were only a couple of times when the twists seemed to affect the tension or true of the wheel. I did find that it was a little harder to stress the spokes as the added tension from the twists meant that I couldn’t squeeze the parallel spokes that well to help them settle. (I would usually squeeze the pairs of parallel spokes on each side of the wheel a few times after each round of tensioning and truing, this helps the spokes and nipples settle in their seats in the hub or rim.) I also found that even with relatively even tension it was much harder to get the eggs (or up and down trueness) out of the rim, but with a bit of perseverance I managed to end up with a round and straight wheel. https://www.rpbiketech.com/blog/how-to-adjust-a-headset monthly 0.5 2021-02-15 https://www.rpbiketech.com/blog/how-to-fit-bike-tyres monthly 0.5 2021-03-23 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1611573076721-6NUHOY5R9W8RXE79YYGV/Changing+tube_13.jpg Blog - 5 tips to make fitting bike tyres easier - 1) Make sure the bead of the tyre is pushed down into the centre well of the rim. This is the most common reason that people struggle to remove or fit a tyre. When the bead of the tyre is sat firmly on the bead of the rim the tyre is going to be as tight as possible to help the tyre stay on the rim and to create the best seal (for tubeless set ups), pushing both sides of the tyre off the bead of the rim and down into the well of the rim gives you the slack that you need to be able to remove the tyre. This is also the case when fitting a tyre, if you get round to the last part of the tyre going on and it gets incredibly hard to pop on, then the bead of the tyre most likely isn’t sat in the well, it’s probably stuck on the bead of the rim and therefore making the tyre a much tighter fit. Once you push the tyre back into the well you should have enough slack to be able to pop the tyre on with your hands. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1611573755685-LZTVC44VIL9ZON47SVPU/Changing+tube_08.jpg Blog - 5 tips to make fitting bike tyres easier - 3) Removing and installing a rear wheel. When removing a rear wheel with a derailleur, make sure the chain is on the smallest cog, and the Clutch is off (if your mech has one) then pull the knuckle of the derailleur whilst pushing the cage to move it out of the way and the wheel should drop out without much hassle. This helps when re-installing the rear wheel too. It’s also good practice (especially with open drop out frames and forks) to tighten the skewer or bolt with the bike on it’s wheels on the floor, this will make sure everything has correctly located and will make aligning brakes and gears much easier. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1611574585142-KDXMIOY5TVJDMDR5I0MN/Changing+tube_31.jpg Blog - 5 tips to make fitting bike tyres easier - 4) Don’t forget to check the tyre rotation! Tyre manufacturers haven’t spent a lot of time designing tyres only for people to fit them incorrectly. Make sure to check the side wall of the tyre before fitting it, there will almost definitely be an arrow or similar to denote the correct way that the tyre needs to rotate. A lot o mountain bike and gravel tyres will have dedicated rolling and braking edges. The rolling edge will generally be ramped to help reducing drag when going forwards and the braking edge will normally be a sharp edge to help bite into the ground when the brakes are applied. Maxxis tyres are some of the easiest to check which way they’re designed to rotate because they only have the model logo on the drive side of the tyre. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1611575547182-I6IM0PZN08QJKPQCZZVG/Changing+tube_45.jpg Blog - 5 tips to make fitting bike tyres easier - 5) Take up the slack. Once you have made sure that the bead of the tyre is in the centre of the rim all the round both side you’ll have the last bit of the tyre to get onto the rim, this can be quite tough with some tyre/rim combinations. To make it easier you’ll need to take the slack from the parts of the bead that are on the rim and slide it round to the part of the bead that needs to be fitted. With the bead that needs to be fitted furthest away from you, start with your hands near the top of the tyre and slide your hands round to the other side, feeding the bead onto the rim as you go. As you get to the last part you should have enough slack to gently push the tyre onto the rim. This can take a few goes to get right but once you master it you should be able to fit almost any tyre without using tyre levers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1611573381539-2IMPJWQRGH5T05T28ERD/Changing+tube_17.jpg Blog - 5 tips to make fitting bike tyres easier - 2) Don’t use tyre levers to fit the tyre! Only use tyre levers to remove a tyre, not to fit it. Using a tyre lever to fit a tyre will most likely damage something as you fit the tyre, that being pinching the tube (if you’re using one) or damaging the rim tape (which if you’re tubeless can be a massive headache and cause lots of swearing!). 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Or just don’t want to? Get us to do it! With years of experience and hundreds of wheels built, you can rest assured that your newly built wheels will last. We can build any kind of wheels you need, from mountain bike to road and everything in between. We can either supply all the parts needed or just some of them. Don’t know exactly what you want? We’re here help make the choices a whole lot easier, just fill in the form below and let’s work it out together. Prices start from £40 for a wheel build. 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Founded by Rich Parkes in 2020, at a time when many want to keep knowledge a secret, we found ourselves wanting to do quite the opposite. Being a Cytech Level 3 qualified “Master Technician” and with over a decade of experience in bicycle mechanics, from every day recreation or commuter bikes, right through to top-end custom builds and the demands of race day spannering, there’s very little Rich hasn’t done or seen first hand. Driven by a burning desire to inspire others to ‘give it a go’, RP BikeTech is here to smooth the transition from novice to competency. Whether you’re a tentative bike tinkerer wanting to improve your confidence or a budding race team mechanic yearning to learn some more tips-of-the-trade, we can almost certainly help. Head over and book onto one of our pre-made courses or get in touch for any bespoke requirements. Alternatively, just give us an email and lets talk all things two wheeled, we love nothing more than to indulge in a bit of bicycle geekery! https://www.rpbiketech.com/toolboxes daily 0.75 2023-04-26 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5fbce11208be2a251958b3f9/1634823008681-597XBRDEJULICK6JKEQI/Toolbox1 Toolboxes - Custom Toolbox Building Everyone loves a bit of toolbox porn right?! I’m here to help you design and spec your own dream toolbox that is tailored to your bikes and components. With years of experience working on bikes and using all kinds of tools I can help you choose the right tools for your needs and can be confident that they will last. I can either supply all the tools needed or just some of them. I will be with you along the way to help make the choices a whole lot easier, just fill in the form below and let’s work it out together. Prices start from £1000 for a full toolbox build around the size of the images below, including all tools, box, foam and the time from concept to cutting the foam for the finished product. Want something similar or completely different? 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